Until the 1950s the gorgeous amphitheatre of thirteen peaks and nine glaciers which surround Saas Fee kept out all but locals and their mules. The ring of peaks still keeps cars out, but in the last decade or so modern chalets have surrounded the traditional wooden heart of Saas Fee, drawn by the extended ski season which can last up to ten months of the year. Less developed than Zermatt, its closest neighbour, some of the best places to stay in Saas Fee are smaller complexes.
One of the highlights of Saas Fee is the view. Just wandering around town is a many varied pleasure, with so many dramatic peaks for your eyes to choose between. If you want to change position, take a gondola up to Allalin at the top of the resort and look down - possibly from the revolving restaurant.
The dramatic scenery might look intimidating for folks new to skiing, but it needn't, Saas Fee's quiet nursery slopes are aside from the main action, so a good spot for gaining confidence. And once you've found your ski legs there are a good selection of gentle blue runs to inspire you. Intermediate skiers get a great deal too, some excellent top-to-bottom runs descending from 3,500metres to the resort at 1,800metres.
There's not as much for advanced skiers due to the glaciers surrounding the resort which tend to limit too much off-piste exploration. But during summer some of the glaciers become ski or snowboarding runs in their own right.
Non-skiers get a good deal at Saas Fee too, there's a whole mountain devoted to other mountain games, including tobogganing, sledging, snow tubing and paragliding. And the Snowboard Park has a good reputation.
The Heidi-style charm of the centre of town offers more traditional aprés ski - your alpine restaurants and cosy, food-fired bars - and the more modern parts of town have the more modern aprés-amenities, late night discos etc..