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 Channel Ports Hotels
It's France, it's a cinch to get there, and you can stock up on booze on the way home - those are the pros. It's dull and industrial, there's nothing to do and nowhere decent to stay - those, it is generally considered, are the cons of a quick hop and a night or two close to Boulogne, Calais and Dunkirk. Fair comment? Up to a point. For a start, there is lovely countryside in the Pays Boulonnais - particularly around Montreuil in the 'seven valleys' - and the coastal resorts have spruced themselves up. Family outings might include the Nausicaa sea life centre in Boulogne; the battlefield and excellent visitor centre at Agincourt and the secret underground city, La Coupole, built by the Germans to launch their V2 rockets. And no one should miss the stunning central squares in Arras. As for places to stay: things are getting better. Stylish seaside hotels are beginning to make an appearance along the Cote Opale, while inland there's a crop of chateaux, chambres d'hote and restaurants-with-rooms well worth the cross-Channel trek. Here's our pick. The hotels are listed by price category, and their order bears no reflection on our preference.
Reviews by Fiona Duncan |
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| Luxury: More English country house than French château, with landscaped gardens and top notch dining room |
| Location: In Montreuil-sur-Mer, 75km from Calais, 18km from Le Touquet |
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| Château de Montreuil has the feel of an English country house: positioned behind a high wall, the rooms look on to beautiful landscaped gardens, where you can enjoy an exceptional breakfast - with home-made everything - in summer. The restaurant, with one Michelin star, is always packed with locals; the rooms (most with four-posters) more than comfortable. This hotel aims high, and hits the target. |
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| Luxury: 18th century château converted into a luxurious hotel where serious pampering is guaranteed |
| Location: Cassel, 45km from Lille, 50km from Calais, 30km from Dunkirk |
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| This 18th century château in the Flemish town of Cassel opened as a smart hotel in 2005 and adds a luxurious new element to the hotel scene in the area. There’s a wide choice of rooms, each individually themed (3 suites, 7 rooms, 2 cottages), a fine view from the sweeping restyled veranda and a sybaritic spa. For serious pampering, close to the Channel Ports, and to three golf courses. |
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| Mid Price: Cosy place to stay with smart red and gold decoration and mahogany furniture |
| Location: In Boulogne, near the beach |
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| With its uniform decoration and purpose-made mahogany furniture and fittings, La Matelote has a rather masculine air. The dominant red and gold colour scheme does, however, create a feeling of warmth, and it’s a cosy place in which to hole up during winter months. Save money by taking a ‘standard’ room; they are only a bit smaller than the ‘prestige’. Dine, of course, at the adjoining well-known fish restaurant of the same name. |
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| Mid Price: Large comfortable rooms at good-value prices |
| Location: 40km from Lille, 5km from Bethune |
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| Built on the site of an 11th century Carthusian monastery, this privately owned, gracious hotel has great presence. With 67 bedrooms (supporting no less than three restaurants), it is not intimate, but food is firmly above average, and prices – for the spacious rooms as well – are extremely reasonable. There is little to do in the area, but come here for a relaxing, and affordable, getaway. |
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| Mid Price: Two-Michelin starred restaurant in a stunning 17th century château |
| Location: in Busnes, 80km from Calais, 55km from Lille |
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| If top-flight French cuisine close to Calais or Boulogne is what you’re after, look no further than Marc Meneau’s two-Michelin starred restaurant in the beautiful 17th century Château de Beaulieu. For dinner in the most elegant of Empire-style surroundings perhaps try grilled foie gras of duck with port wine reduction followed by walnut-crusted wild sea bass, then spend the night in an equally elegant (if formal) room or suite. The perfect gourmet getaway. |
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| Inexpensive: Intimate chambres d'hôte in appealing 19th century château in its own unspoilt park |
| Location: Outside Wierre-Effroy, 30km from Calais, 12km from Boulogne |
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| This charming, pale blue shuttered 19th century château, standing in its own unpretentious little park, is the renovated childhood home of Mme Bernard who now runs it as a friendly chambres d'hôte with her husband, while their son manages their nearby hotel, Ferme du Vert, also recommended. Here there are just five fresh, pretty, individually decorated bedrooms, as well as a cosy sitting room and large, homely kitchen for breakfast. Good value for money. |
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| Inexpensive: Excellent seafood and spectacular sunsets at this Art Deco seafront hotel |
| Location: Wimereux; on seafront, 6 km N of Boulogne |
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| The Atlantic's much-loved Art Deco façade stands facing the sea with its broad white sand beach, on the busy, pedestrianised seafront. There are panoramic views and spectacular sunsets from the sought-after westerly-facing rooms, while those at the back are small, comfortable and exceptionally good value. The elegant first-floor restaurant is well know for its seafood, particularly its fruits de mer. |
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| Inexpensive: Turreted house with simple, airy rooms and a laid-back attitude |
| Location: In Crotoy, 90km from Calais 90km, Boulogne 150km |
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| We get consistently flattering reports of this remarkably odd-looking former home of parfumier Pierre Guerlain, turreted and red-walled on the outside, an attractive, pared-down version of seaside chic inside. Several of the simple, airy bedrooms (some without ensuite facilities) have balconies giving on to the Somme estuary, famed for its pearl-grey light. A happy-go-lucky place, perfect for families (dormitory for children) where the good food, with a bias towards fish, is carefully presented. |
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