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 Cote d'Azur Hills Hotels
Two types head for the Cote d'Azur: those who do (want to be seen) and those who don't. Those who do crowd together on the coast, jangling their jewels on the Corniche and in St-Trop, and enduring nose-to-tail traffic jams as they crawl along the coast. Those who don't (want to be seen) love the region as much for its broom-covered hills as for its raffish, scintillating seaside; for the dry heat, clear light and scent of pine in the air; and for the heady fusion of art and landscape, wine and sunshine, ancient villages and modern sophistication that gives the Cote d'Azur its dazzling character. Only a handful of the hotels that are set in the foothills of the Alpes Maritimes just behind the coast stand out in our opinion: here they are, both contemporary and traditional, to suit all pockets. The hotels are listed by price category, and their order bears no reflection on our preference.
 Reviews by Leonie Glass |
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| Luxury: Sophisticated haven with impeccable service and breathtaking views |
| Location: Vence. On hill above the village, 500 m above sea, 12 km from coast |
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| Wind up above Vence, and you’ll find a bastion of good taste, a place that reveals its pleasures with serenity, discretion and immaculate old-school service. Wrought-iron gates open slowly as you approach and in your cool white bedroom beautiful curtains are swept aside to reveal a view over the coast that will surely make you gasp, Dinner: excellent, again with that view. Lovely terrace, gardens and pool. An oasis of understated glamour in the hills. |
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| Luxury: Painstakingly renovated old bastide with the feel of home |
| Location: Grasse. In peaceful Le Rouret, in foothills outside town |
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| A grown-up retreat, this 18th-century bastide has been restored by hoteliers Inge and Arie van Osch, who have lavished loved and care on its conversion, with decoration and furniture that's a happy mix of antique and contemporary. The result: a luxurious small hotel with the ambience of an exclusive private house. No dinner, but advice and bookings for restaurants in the area. |
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| Luxury: Paul Roux's iconic hotel, decorated in rustic chic style |
| Location: St-Paul-de-Vence. At entrance to village, 21 km NE of Nice |
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| When Paul Roux opened his modest inn in the 1930s, he wouldn't have dreamed it would become the famous, chic hotel it is today. Many of his customers were struggling artists. The result: the art and sculpture on display to this day is extraordinary. The style is rustic chic and refreshingly casual, whether by the pool, on the flower-filled terrace or in the cosy sunken sitting room. A legendary hotel. |
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| Mid Price: Alluring hotel occupying a number of farm buildings, with beautiful gardens |
| Location: St-Paul-de-Vence. One km outside the village, 15 km NW of Nice |
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| Just outside St-Paul-de-Vence, with views of both village and valley, a cluster of red-roofed old Provençal farm buildings surrounded by lovely scented gardens filled with orange trees, arbours and pergolas, and a delightful pool. Bedrooms, varying in size, are elegant rustic with beams, rugs and country antiques. A captivating place. |
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| Mid Price: Conversion of several houses, perched along the ramparts and full of character |
| Location: Haut-de-Cagnes. In village, 10 km from Nice and coast |
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| A delightfully characterful hotel, Relais & Châteaux, perched along the ramparts of an old village and sensitively converted from a series of old houses. Centrepiece is the vaulted dining room, where you eat by candlelight, and stunning upper dining room, leading to the terrace, with elaborate painted ceiling that slides away at the touch of a button to reveal the sky. Bedrooms vary widely, many with original features. |
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| Mid Price: Strikingly done-up 18th century house makes a captivating hotel |
| Location: Vence. In village, 12 km from Nice |
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| A fabulous, vibrantly decorated and beautifully run addition to the choice of places to stay in the hills above Cannes and Nice. The late 18th century house faces the town's great ash tree, planted in the reign of François I and captured in paint by Soutine. Inside, the imaginative decoration is ravishing, the five suites large, airy and luxurious, the breakfast delicious. |
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| Mid Price: Plush rooms and superb cuisine are the highlights of this handsome country house |
| Location: Grasse. In countryside on edge of town |
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| Celebrated chef Jacques Chibois' blue-shuttered manor house, in an old olive grove, is smothered in purple bougainvillea, with lawn and large pool, old stone walls and shaded walkways. The eight luxurious bedrooms, either contemporary or traditional, have terraces or balconies and the food, taken in the dining room or on the lovely terrace, is superb. A special treat. |
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| Inexpensive: Good food and spectacular views at this family-run inn |
| Location: Peillon. On village edge, 19 km NE of Nice. |
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| Family-run auberge in a stunning setting on the edge of impossibly perched Peillon, high above Nice. Time stands still: dark cobbled alleys lead to the church and tall stone houses look over rocky crests and distant forests. Bedrooms are fairly small but comfortable; excellent food is served on the sunny terrace or welcoming dining room. |
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