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 Provence Towns and Villages Hotels
Provence towns may not be as glamorous as those of the Cote d'Azur, but neither are they so overdeveloped or expensive. Prosperous and cultured, towns such as Avignon, Aix and Arles all play host to annual international festivals, and all still bear the fascinating historical signs of the Roman occupation. Some of our hotels are in sleepier country towns or the lovely hill villages that dot Provence, and the hotels themselves range from simple yet charming village inns to magnificent converted town mansions. The hotels are listed by price category, and their order bears no reflection on our preference.
 Reviews by Leonie Glass |
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| Luxury: Immaculately decorated and furnished honey-coloured stone mansion in the city centre |
| Location: central Avignon, opposite Palais des Papes |
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| From the late 17th-century honey-coloured façade to the glassed-in courtyard, dotted with plants and sculptures, nothing about this gorgeous hotel, built on a 14th-century cardinal’s palace, disappoints. Reception rooms and bedrooms, done out impeccably in brocade, chintz or toile de Jouy, are all sumptuous and romantic, and chef Sébastien Aminot draws gourmets from far and wide. |
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| Luxury: Luxurious, characterful conversion of old buildings with a splendid hilltop setting |
| Location: in Crillon le Brave, next to the church |
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| Spread throughout a cluster of atmospheric old buildings, linked by cobbled alleys, this gorgeous, recently upgraded hotel has a wonderful setting at the top of a perched village, with magnificent views of Mont Ventoux. It effortlessly combines luxury and character with beautifully decorated country-style rooms. Philippe Monti, returning to his native Provence, wins plaudits for his cuisine, served in a vaulted restaurant or on a lovely terrace. Check out the November truffle weekends, when the weather is almost always lovely. |
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| Mid Price: Legendary hotel, restored with elegance and a Moorish touch |
| Location: central Arles, in lively place du Forum |
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| Once owned by a cabaret dancer and a tightrope-walking clown, this former cult hotel was the haunt of bullfighters and artists such as Picasso and Cocteau. It has been resuscitated and modernised with great taste and style by Anne Igou. Much of the decoration has an extravagant Moorish feel, and the famous yellow bar is particularly redolent of its bohemian past. A very special place to stay. |
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| Mid Price: Family home turned into informal, warm maison d’hôtes and boutique combined |
| Location: Isle sur la Sorgue; in the centre |
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| Frédéric Dol and Marie-Claude Marseille restored this 18th-century house in 2004 to combine a delightful maison d’hôtes and boutique, selling Oriental objects picked up on their travels, with their family home. Cool and inviting, public rooms contain pieces from the boutique, and there are four individually and tastefully decorated bedrooms. The atmosphere is very relaxed and friendly. |
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| Mid Price: Elegant, well-run hotel in a tranquil garden |
| Location: on the southern edge of St-Rémy de Provence |
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| To call this farmhouse a town hotel is rather misleading. In the peaceful outskirts of St-Rémy and surrounded by a glorious garden, it could be in deep countryside if it weren’t a short walk from the town centre. A very special, seductive place, where nothing is too much trouble for owners Michel Dimeux and Pierre Ticot and their staff, and rooms have been stylishly renovated in soothing colours. |
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| Mid Price: Well run B&B within earshot of Nîmes' Arena |
| Location: NIMES; five minutes from centre |
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| Just five minutes from the Arena in the middle of Nîmes, Sophie and Yves Rigon's B&B is a home away from home. A substantial townhouse dating from the early 20th century, it has large rooms, full of character and furniture from the same period. The bedrooms are all different. Yours might have Persian carpets, a chandelier, or a charming tiled floor. There are two appealing, carefully furnished salons, and a pretty flower-filled garden with a swimming pool. |
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| Mid Price: Charming hotel with pretty rooms and a dramatic position |
| Location: MOUSTIERS SAINTE-MARIE; in centre of the village |
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| This dramatically positioned 18th-century village house appears to be clinging for dear life to the cliff. Inside, the visible rock face lends character to the rooms. There are five bedrooms, all romantic, with terracotta floors, Persian carpets, wooden beams, whitewashed walls, old armoires and fresh flowers. One (La Chapelle) is in the pretty garden, where the air is heady with the scents of Provence. Downstairs, the comfortable main sitting room has a huge fireplace and, if you want to sit and read, there’s a perfect little 'library'. |
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| Mid Price: Uber stylish hotel in an impressive town house |
| Location: ARLES; in the centre, a five-minute walk from the Arena |
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| The last word in French chic, this immaculate boutique hotel occupies a grand mansion, built in 1824 by the Mayor of Arles in a charming maze of back streets. The 13 luxurious bedrooms are split between two wings: one contemporary, the other more traditional. Choose between a sleek, mainly monochrome room, and one with high ceiling, original mouldings and period furniture. All are equipped with superb bedlinen and large fluffy towels and robes. Outside, the L-shaped courtyard is an oasis of calm and the plunge pool perfect for cooling off. |
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| Inexpensive: Central hotel with exposed stone walls, beams and a Provençal look |
| Location: central Arles, beside the amphitheatre |
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| The best location of any hotel in Arles is the boast of Le Calendal, and it’s right. Bang next door to the Roman amphitheatre, the 18th-century building has been cleverly converted, keeping some exposed stone walls and beams. The well-designed bedrooms look pretty in colourful Provençal fabrics, while downstairs there are plenty of comfortable places to sit, including a quiet shady garden. |
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| Inexpensive: Modest but delightful auberge with a cosy atmosphere |
| Location: Piolenc; in side street, off the main street |
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| Its face hidden beneath a jungle of greenery, this simple but charming inn is full of character and warmth. Welcoming owners Jacques and Laurence Deschamps are partly responsible, but it also has a cosy, vaulted dining room with rough-stone walls and terracotta floor, plus five attractive bedrooms. The food is excellent and good value, and they stock a range of superb malt whiskies. |
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| Inexpensive: Charming, popular inn, decorated with understated chic |
| Location: place de la Fontaine, in the middle of Saignon |
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| Three beamed houses have been knocked together to form this delightful auberge in a hilltop village, which accounts for its appealingly quirky layout. Downstairs one room leads off another, whilst the bedrooms are arranged on different levels, reached by separate staircases and corridors. This piecemeal architecture and artlessly stylish decoration give it huge charm, boosted by Provençal food and a popular bar |
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| Inexpensive: Comfy traditional hotel in a perfect medieval hill town |
| Location: VAISON LA ROMAINE; in the old town |
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| There’s a very friendly feel to this comfortable, traditional hotel, which has been in Yann Christiansen’s family for three generations and is run by an enthusiastic team. It occupies two houses in one of Provence’s loveliest medieval hill towns: one built in the 16th-century for a count, the other in the 17th for a marquis. Inside are old stone, exposed beams and polished tiled floors. |
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| Inexpensive: Friendly hotel in a fine looking 19th-century house with wonderful views |
| Location: GORDES; a 5-minute walk from the centre |
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| Having made such a success of Le Mas des Carassins, Michel Dimeux and Pierre Ticot turned their attention to this 19th-century house with dry stone walls, which they bought and renovated a few years ago. The raw material was promising – handsome house, lovely garden, magical views – and they have created another delightful hotel: simple yet chic and full of character with an attentive welcoming staff. |
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| Inexpensive: Art classes and a calm atmosphere at this delightful B&B |
| Location: SAINT-REMY-DE-PROVENCE; just north of the centre |
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| A bed-and-breakfast with a difference. As well as 12 enchanting bedrooms – all furnished with natural simplicity – there is an artists' workshop, where guests can take painting classes. Try and book a room with its own veranda, shaded by the fig trees in the garden. A copious breakfast is served in a room off reception, decorated with paintings by a local artist. Every morning is different, but expect a feast of freshly baked bread, excellent coffee, fresh juice, fruit and locally made yoghurt. A tranquil, homely and relaxing place, where the owners' attention to detail shows. |
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| Inexpensive: B&B with unbeatable prices |
| Location: Arles; in the centre, next to the Arena |
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| One of a new crop of Arles hotels, this B&B has unbeatable prices. The old building has been sympathetically modernized, and fitted out with character and imagination. Upstairs – beware, there's no lift – the cheapest double rooms tend to be small. Pay fractionally more, and you'll have plenty of space. Although it can be tricky through the narrow streets, you can drive to the door and pick up a discount pass for a nearby car park. There's no restaurant, but you'll find an excellent choice in the neighbourhood. Helpful staff. |
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