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 Northern Ireland Hotels
The Troubles are over, and the prosperity that has changed the face of the Republic of Ireland in recent years is beginning to seep north over the border, though the effect on Northern Ireland's fairly dull hotels has, as yet, been slow to manifest itself. Belfast, however, is certainly witnessing change, especially with the opening of its first grande luxe city hotel, the Merchant Hotel, set in the former headquarters of the Ulster Bank. Malmaison also has a presence in Belfast, and there are two other 'boutique' places, Ten Square, which doesn't do it for us, and Crescent Town House, which does. Outside Belfast, anyone looking for a bit of character and personality should turn, in the main, to privately run guesthouses, of which there are several fine examples, rather than the crop of run of the mill hotels on offer (with notable exceptions: see below). Of the 'five star' hotels in the province (we would say 'four'), the Hastings group run six long-established properties, two of which, Slieve Donard and Cullodon (in Holywood, four miles from Belfast), have superb state of the art spas attached, much appreciated by those looking for golf-and-spa holidays. The hotels are listed by price category, and their order bears no reflection on our preference. |
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| Luxury: Stunning transformation of a former 19th century bank |
| Location: BELFAST: central, in the Cathedral Quarter |
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| The former 19th century HQ of the Ulster Bank, complete with gloriously pompous decoration in the Great Room and lofty suites that were once the private rooms of the Director, has helped to restore Belfast's status with its stunning transformation into an evocation of romantic Napoleon III-style Paris, including a superb bar serving, amongst many others, the world's most expensive cocktail. Though atmosphere isn't quite as louche as its decor suggests – once a bank, always a bank – it's admirably unusual and dramatic for a city hotel. Affordable standard rooms. |
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| Luxury: One of Northern Ireland's best known hotels, adjacent to the Royal County Down Golf Course |
| Location: NEWCASTLE, CO DOWN: overlooking the sea |
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| This landmark hotel, built in 1898 to serve the railway bringing visitors to the resort 'where the mountains of Morne sweep down to the sea' has been given a £15 million refurb involving redecorated bedrooms as well as a state of the art Espa spa and pool complex, with 60 stylish 'resort rooms' above. All well and good, except that the makeover of the existing ground floor stops at the glamourous lobby, inducing the odd feeling of being in two quite different places, one cool and new, the other fusty and old, with indifferent food. |
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| Mid Price: Renowned inn offering genuine Irish hospitality |
| Location: BUSHMILLS, CO. ANTRIM: famous for its distillery, on the Causeway Coast |
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| Prices are on the high side at this much loved inn where locals mix with tourists, many on golfing holidays, in a warren of little snugs leading to the Gas Bar, with strong echoes of a Wild West saloon and much conviviality. Bedrooms are panelled in wood, and, while comfortable, are not in the first flush of youth decor-wise. But if furnishings aren't up to the mark, the genuine Irish hospitality (all staff are local) most certainly is. Lots of American guests. |
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| Mid Price: Sophisticated family run guesthouse with excellent food |
| Location: NEWFORGE, CO. ARMAGH: central Northern Ireland, within reach of Belfast, and north and east coasts |
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| About as sophisticated as a guesthouse gets. Instead of sharing the owners' home, you have the run of it: young John and Louise Mathers live in one outbuilding, John's parents in another. Six generations of Mathers (a linen family) have lived here, the latest restoring and converting it. The Georgian interior has been respected, but the walls have that clean, smooth, modern finish and there’s an optimistic, airy atmosphere – windows are tall. The six charming guest rooms are decorated in the best of taste and John is a professional chef. Terrific. |
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| Inexpensive: Charming family-run guesthouse |
| Location: TEMPLEPATRICK, CO. ANTRIM: in Donegore hamlet, next to the church, 20 minutes from Belfast |
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| With its roots as a 17th century inn, this sky blue and white house, with huge views from the upper floors, is filled with music, pictures and good books. Warm and welcoming Thelma McCausland, a great home cook, offers two guest bedrooms in her family home, one blue and pretty, the other deep red and handsome, with Irish linen on the beds and plenty of extra touches but, appropriately, not televisions. The neat, pretty sitting room is at guests' disposal; the smell of fresh baking scents the air. |
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| Inexpensive: A fine b&b, overlooking Whitepark Bay |
| Location: BALLINTOY, CO. ANTRIM: on coast road between Giant's Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge |
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| Close to charming Ballintoy Harbour and the Giant's Causeway, Whitepark House is owned by Bob and Siobhan Isles, and while Siobhan has her own career, Bob pursues his: that of superb, fastidious host. Everything is done to perfection, from the tea waiting for guests in front of a crackling fire to his award winning Ulster Fry breakfast and the characterful bedrooms and en suite bathrooms, recently renovated. The house is eclectic, filled with objects brought back from Far Eastern travels. |
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| Inexpensive: Relaxed private country house in a beautiful coastal setting |
| Location: DOWNPATRICK, CO. DOWN: under the Mourne mountains, with farmland sweeping to private beach |
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| Staying at Tyrella (pronounced Ti-rulla) as David Corbett’s guest is to experience in a genuine way the vanishing lifestyle of the Northern Irish landed gentry. The fine, secluded country house has well proportioned rooms on a human scale filled with family furniture. Don’t expect immaculate paintwork or a trim drive; do expect a relaxed welcome, a large bedroom, a comfortable bed, good dinner and the feeling of being in a home. Extensive grounds and private beach a great bonus. |
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| Inexpensive: Excellent, unpretentious waterfront hotel overlooking Strangford Lough |
| Location: PORTAFERRY, CO. DOWN: on the seafront |
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| Right on the waterfront, this is a deservedly popular hotel, with a thoroughly refurbished interior behind its 18th century facade. With welcoming owners, it feels cosy and traditional, yet also fresh, with pretty, well equipped bedrooms, some of which overlook the water, and excellent, unpretentious food in the restaurant featuring local produce such as Ulster beef, Mourne lamb and locally landed fish. Breakfasts are a treat. Recommended. |
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| Inexpensive: Excellent city centre choice at reasonable prices |
| Location: BELFAST: Tucked off Botanic Avenue, 15 minutes walk from city centre |
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| An affordable choice for a stylish stay, the Crescent has an elegant modern interior behind its handsome 19th century listed facade. Tucked just off raffish Botanic Avenue, it's nevertheless pretty much protected from the noise. Choose one of two elegant 'Georgian' rooms (with stand alone baths), or others that are much more contemporary. There's also a Brasserie, Metro, serving very good food, and snug Bar 12, perfect for meeting friends, as well as a calming wood panelled library. Good value. |
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