Some of the most luxurious hotels in the Med nestle in the exclusive enclaves of Crete's north coast, incongruously close to resorts notorious for sun, sand, sex and cheap booze. But there are other, more affordable aspects of Greece's largest and most fascinating island. Head west for stylish and affordable boutique hotels in the historic Venetian centres of Rethymnon and Chania; go bush in the mountain forests of the far west; or make for the south coast, where a certain post-hippy, New Age vibe still permeates and where you can stay in traditional hamlets retro-fitted with en-suite facilities and constant hot water, courtesy of the sun. The White Mountains - tipped with snow until May - beckon walkers; the blue Libyan Sea seduces swimmers and those seeking an all-over tan; and the ghosts of Minoans, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Venetians and Turks haunt medieval fortresses, ancient sites and mountain passes.
The order by which the hotels are listed bears no reflection on our preference. They all close from November to Greek Easter.
Written by Robin Gauldie
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“Remote mountain eyrie run by friendly people”
- Inexpensive
- VLATOS; 4.5km outside village, in the west of Crete, around 2 hrs drive from Chania (the last part over winding dirt roads with steep drops)
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“A great getaway on an idyllic blue bay in a car-free village”
- Moderate
- Loutro, on the southwest coast; accessible only by foot or passenger ferry from Chora Sfakion
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“Colourful, simple self-catering apartments in the hub”
- Inexpensive
- CHANIA; overlooking the harbour (entrance is on a narrow, pedestrian-only street one block back from waterfront)
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“Antique Venetian farmhouse meets designer chic”
- Moderate
- CHANIA; 3km from town centre on the western outskirts
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“Gracious living, Chania style, but without a pool”
- Luxury
- CHANIA; in a quiet side street in the old town
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“The ultimate in deep rural tranquillity, with beach, bars and tavernas a walk away”
- Inexpensive
- MAKRIYIALOS; in a valley 2.5km north of the village
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“Peaceful, sunny, friendly haven in the heart of Rethymnon”
- Moderate
- RETHYMNON; in a tiny lane off a quiet square in the old part of town
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“Venetian mansion style combined with modern townhouse comfort”
- Moderate
- RETHYMNON; in the historic centre
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“Simple rustic charm with a pool and mains electricity”
- Inexpensive
- MAKRIYIALOS; 2.5km to the north, in the Pefki valley
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“Townhouse style with a fabulous harbour view from the pretty roof terrace”
- Moderate
- CHANIA; on a steep street just below the ruined fortress walls
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