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 Burgundy Bed and Breakfast Hotels
In the plump heart of France, Burgundy's varied countryside is threaded with rivers, patched with woods and vineyards and peppered with castles and abbeys. Rich is the word. If you are in for being thoroughly spoilt, there's a glut of gastronomic temples from which to choose, yet despite the region's sleek prosperity, it is also surprisingly timeless and rural, even wild in places, a fact reflected in the many humble restaurants that are just as excellent in their way as the great ones. Their menus are rooted to the terroir, with the same refrain endlessly repeated: snails, jambon persille, Charolais beef, poulet de Bresse, freshwater trout, Epoisses, pain d'epices, mustard, clafoutis, cassis. Some may tire of it after a while; unfortunately we don't. On the subject of lodging, it's a question of avoiding insipid tourist hotels and knowing the individual, homely and characterful places that match the restaurants and the famous wines in character and local colour. The hotels are listed by price category, and their order bears no reflection on our preference.
 Reviews by Leonie Glass |
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| Inexpensive: A charming host and excellent breakfasts mark out this B&B |
| Location: Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, 17 km SW of Semur-en-Auxois |
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| In a historic fortified village noted for the aniseed sweets that scent the air, and its starring role in the film Chocolat, L’Ange Souriant is a delightful b&b run by gentle, ever-helpful Peruvian Wilder Barrueto. If he has time, he’ll take you on a tour, exchanging greetings with his neighbours as he goes, and in the morning will serve you his special eggs with cheese en cocotte. |
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| Mid Price: Friendly hotel in a glorious setting |
| Location: La Montagne; 2 km outside Beaune |
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| The setting is idyllic, at the edge of woods with views over vineyards and the ancient ramparts of Beaune. The seven large, bright, soothingly decorated bedrooms are split between the main house and a cottage, so even when the hotel's full, it doesn't feel it. Jean-Louis and Christine Martin are the friendly owners, a fund of local knowledge who will organize anything from wine-tasting to ballooning. |
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| Inexpensive: Seductive B&B which hosts wine tastings |
| Location: Curtil Vergy; in village between Dijon and Beaune |
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| Le Manassès doesn’t need to rely on either of its claims to fame: that Prince Charles once stayed, and that its colourful owner, winemaker Yves Chaley, became the unwitting star of a Channel Four documentary about village life in France. While Yves concentrates on the wine (there are evening tastings) his daughter and son-in-law run the b&b: smart rooms, views over the sculpted valley, delicious breakfasts. |
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| Inexpensive: 18th century maison bourgeoise in wonderful grounds |
| Location: Mersault; in town centre, 8 km SW of Beaune |
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| On the face of it, the charm of Les Charmes is in the shady walled garden, so big it's almost a small park. At the far end, by the pool, you could be far, far away, instead of in the heart of this famous Burgundy town. But there's more. This 18th century maison bourgeoise is in a world of its own: simple, old fashioned and genuine. Be sure to ask for a chambre 'meublée à l'ancienne' rather than 'en modern'. |
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| Inexpensive: Simple, cosy riverside guesthouse |
| Location: Avallon; just outside Pontaubert, 4 km from Avallon |
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| We've always felt affection for this modest, welcoming stopover, now in the capable hands of M and Mme Liberatore. The quaint bedrooms have rough, white plastered walls with flowery wallpaper on ceilings, old polished doors and tiny bathrooms. Rooms on the first floor are compact; those on the second are larger. Records of a mill here stetch back to the 12th century; today it makes an idyllic spot on the banks of the charming river Cousin. |
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