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 Puglia Country Hotels
The fertile countryside of Italy's heel is largely flat and characterised by olive trees with huge, gnarled trunks (some of them many centuries old), rich red soil, fields planted with tomatoes and artichokes, dry stone walls and a sense of endless space and far-reaching horizons. Being long and narrow, nowhere is too far from the sea, and if you choose to stay in a location somewhere in the middle of the Salento peninsula, you can reach the splendid beaches of both the Adriatic and the Ionian coasts, as well as the area's historic towns, within a matter of about 20 minutes. Country hotels in these parts are dominated by the masserias, dozens of which have opened their doors to guests in recent years. These traditional fortified farmhouses are characterised by a tall, solid, square central block and a series of outbuildings often enclosed within high walls. Some of them have aristocratic origins while others were quite humble dwellings. Today's masseria hotels range accordingly from five-star places with swanky spas, gourmet restaurants and endless services and facilities to relatively modest guest houses offering a back to nature experience and homely food. Prices vary accordingly. The hotels are listed by price category, and their order bears no reflection on our preference. |
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| Luxury: 5 star family-run hotel with a delightful down-to-earth atmosphere |
| Location: MONOPOLI; 5 kms south |
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| This was the first masseria in Puglia to be converted into a luxury hotel. 20-odd years on, ex-antique dealer Roberto Guerra and his family are still running it with charm and dedication. The solid, 16th century ex-farmhouse and its sprawling, Moorish outbuildings house 37 bedrooms and suites, sitting rooms and an excellent restaurant (all filled with period furnishings and paintings) while outside there are flower-filled courtyards and terraces, a big pool, and tennis courts. A sophisticated new spa adds to the attractions. |
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| Luxury: One of Puglia’s best hotels offering a serious spa and golf course |
| Location: FASANO; 5 kms north of town, just inland from beaches |
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| Parts of the pristine white 14th century buildings that house this luxurious hotel were once used by the Knights of Malta. Much loved by the celeb set, today, it is an impressive spa hotel specialising in thalassotherapy treatments with 35 sumptuously appointed bedrooms and suites. It’s situated only 200 metres from the sea, but the stunning salt water pool makes a seriously tempting alternative for lazy days in the sun. The 18-hole golf course is one of the region’s best. |
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| Luxury: Five star country villa with great location for touring cultural sights and beaches |
| Location: MARTINA FRANCA; 2 kms south of town on Taranto road |
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| Located just outside the Baroque town of Martina Franca and standing in immaculate gardens, this peach-hued villa makes an excellent luxury base for touring this area of Puglia. Sunlight pours through tall windows in the public rooms and 23 bedrooms and suites, where fine antiques and fabrics lend an air of old-fashioned luxury, and pastel-coloured paintwork gives the whole place a warm glow. Facilities include a highly-rated restaurant, a spa and a gorgeous pool where light lunches are served under white umbrellas. |
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| Luxury: Luxury rustic chic with a private beach club |
| Location: FASANO; 5 kms north east of town near the sea |
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| With its rustic-chic look, Torre Coccaro is a fine example of a 21st century masseria hotel. Expect a mix of old and new furniture and fine linens and silks in the 33 bedrooms each with its own outdoor space. One romantic suite occupies an ancient cave and has its own olive grove and pool. The restaurant is housed in the ex-stable block and serves organic regional cuisine while the myriad leisure facilities include an Aveda spa and a private beach club. |
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| Luxury: Sophisticated, contemporary hotel with a young, hip vibe |
| Location: FASANO; 5 kms northeast of town near the sea |
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| Under the same ownership as neighbouring Torre Coccaro, this sophisticated hotel has a younger, hip vibe. It is centered around a solid, white-painted tower while the 28 smart, blue and white contemporary bedrooms (some with open fires and jacuzzis) are housed in an extension. The bar spills out onto a courtyard furnished with Balinese sofas piled with immaculate white cushions while the restaurant overlooks a big pool. There’s a small spa, a 9-hole golf course and guests have use of Torre Coccaro’s beach club. |
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| Mid Price: Rustic-chic and a laid-back atmosphere on an 18-hole golf course |
| Location: FASANO; 5 kms north, 300 metres from the coast |
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| San Domenico’s rustic-chic little sister is situated right on the 18-hole golf course. The vibe here is much more relaxed than in the 5-star palace down the road and prices are contained. Rough white walls and grey-paintwork feature throughout the masseria and its outbuildings, a perfect background for the deceptively simple decorative details and flickering candlelight. In warm weather, breakfast and a superb set dinner are served on a covered terrace; for cooler weather there’s a vaulted dining room and a cosy bar complete with roaring fire. |
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| Mid Price: Justly famous masseria with wonderful rustic food and a vaguely eccentric air |
| Location: OSTUNI; north west of the town and a few kms from the Adriatic coast |
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| Armando Balestrazzi’s ‘crazy’ idea to leave stressed corporate life in Bari and move to the country resulted in the wonderful Frantoio, a masseria with a genuine, country feel. An extraordinary collection of furniture, objéts and memorabilia fills public spaces and the 10 pretty bedrooms, housed in the 16th century farmhouse built around a bougainvillea-filled courtyard. Fruit, veg and herbs from the garden are used in fabulous multi-course meals prepared by Rosalba, Armando’s wife. House policy; no TVs in the rooms and no pool. |
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| Mid Price: Relaxed retreat with a contemporary twist near the sea |
| Location: OTRANTO; 2 kms south west of town |
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| This ex-monastery-turned-masseria makes a comfortable, relaxed base from which to explore the Salentino peninsula. Uncluttered rooms and a predominance of white create a heavenly retreat from the blinding southern sun starting in the airy reception hall and bar with its pale sofas, cool flagstoned floor and brick-vaulted ceiling. The bedrooms feature delicate wrought iron beds, Moroccan lamps and white-tiled bathrooms; each has access to the garden with its pool and fruit trees. Delicious local food is served in an arched dining room or on a covered terrace. |
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| Mid Price: Simple yet stylish masseria on historic olive-growing estate |
| Location: FASANO; 5 kms east of the town and 2 kms from the Adriatic coast |
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| This mellow, ochre-painted farmhouse stands in a 100 hectare olive oil producing estate which has been in the owner’s family since the 17th century and nowadays houses 16 guest rooms, sitting rooms, a rustic restaurant serving local fare and a small spa. Within the walled gardens are citrus groves, a lovely pool, a hot tub and shady terraces. The spartan yet comfortable interior features a stylish, tasteful combination of bare stone, wood, wrought iron, earthy colours and natural fabrics. |
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| Mid Price: Laid back retreat with a vaguely alternative feel near the Ionian coast |
| Location: GALLIPOLI; 20 kms south and 2 kms inland from miles of white sandy beaches |
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| This 15th century brick masseria stands in a beautiful walled garden set in a landscape of endless olive trees just 2 kms from the sea. Two suites are housed in the original tower; the other seven bedrooms are in low adjacent outbuildings. They are done out with simple good taste with an ethnic slant; kilims and colourful bedspreads are set against white walls and bare stone vaulted ceilings. Public space is limited to the garden where comfy chairs are arranged under trees and wine coloured umbrellas shade the pool area. |
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| Mid Price: Contemporary design in an old shell within easy reach of charming Gallipoli and its lovely beaches |
| Location: NARDO; just outside, 15 kms north of Gallipoli |
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| Under the guidance of the owner/architect, renovation work on this masseria took several years; the result is a striking mix of old and new in a 15th century shell. Local building materials and original architectural features rub shoulders with contemporary furniture and ethnic textiles in the 7 bedrooms and suites, several of which have full kitchens. There’s an extensive courtyard garden with pool and a comfortable sitting room with open fire and piles of magazines for cooler weather. Breakfast and a superb dinner is served on your private patio space. |
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