“Built over four terraces that drop down to clear water, the Nine Muses (bungalow suites are named after them) is simply the most appealing place to stay on one of the prettiest and calmest islands (the heavy hand of the Orthodox Church, a major influence here, has kept mass tourism at bay). Inside, it’s all flagstone floors and white arches; the traditional-style suites range from cosy doubles to split-level quadruples, and have private terraces. There’s a fine pool, and the sea is on your doorstep.”



