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Take the exhilarating drive up Teesdale towards the Pennine moorland and you’ll find this former shooting lodge turned country inn in splendid isolation. Even more dramatic, it’s just a 10-minute walk from one of England’s most spectacular waterfalls - High Force. Not England’s highest, but its 21-metre drop has the biggest volume of water of any of the country’s waterfalls.
The white-washed building, set back from the roadside, has a ground-floor bar and entrance hall that is exactly what you want in a welcoming country inn: stripped-wood floors, window seats, scrubbed tables, open fires and a log-burner, walls hung with hunting scenes, and the day’s newspapers scattered around.
The dining room, however, with its unexpectedly smart sea-blue panelled walls, dark-wood polished floor and glowing tea-lights, hints that the bedrooms might also surprise. With their bold colours, elegant headboards, jazzy wool blankets and well-placed antiques, it’s clear that a considered eye has been at work – that of Lady Barnard of Raby Castle, to be exact. The hotel is part of Raby Estates, the family business run by Lady and Lord Barnard (the castle is 30 minutes down the valley near the market town of Barnard Castle).
Although no bedroom is huge, they make clever use of space – a sliding door to the bathroom in one, shelves for bedside tables in another – so they feel relaxed while walls are hung with artwork from Raby Castle. Bathrooms are shower-only apart from two; one with a splendid clawfoot bath and a lovely old-fashioned chain-pull loo.
Dinner is elevated pub food such as chargrilled beef burger with crispy bacon, pan-seared duck breast, and sausage and creamy mash. The wine list, however, is restaurant-standard and extensive.
After breakfast – which includes delicious fruit and honey pots, and omelettes as well as the full English – take the walk to the waterfall; the roar is quite spectacular."
Helen's hot tips: Check out the temporary exhibitions at the Bowes Museum in Barnard Castle; past ones have included Vivienne Westwood. Look out for the selection of cakes and scones on the bar; made fresh every day by the pastry chef.
Restaurant
Country Escape
Other Activities
Trekking
Wildlife Area
Fishing
Sights nearby
Pet friendly
Outstanding location
Sit-out Terrace
Full of character
Good wine list
Family Suites
Hills & mountains
Riverside
Inn
Child friendly
Traditional
Charming
Luxury
Intimate
Romantic
Secluded setting
Rooms
10 rooms in this hotelRestaurant
Hearty, home-cooked British classics and traditional Sunday roasts, made with locally sourced produce from Upper TeesdaleParking
Free parking is possible on site, no reservation neededPet friendly
Four legged friends are welcome, charges may applySit-out Terrace
Wifi
Good wine list
Meeting Room
Fireplace
Communal Dining
Bar
Family Suites
Bath robes
Suites
Garden
Child friendly
Sitting Room
Room service
Safe
Satellite / Cable TV
Other Activities
Trekking
Wildlife Area
Fishing
Sights nearby
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