Aman Sveti Stefan

Hotel review

Previously the haunt of Sophia Loren in the 1960s, the islet of Sveti Stefan has always been the fashionable bolt hole of the rich and famous. Newly renovated after its closure during the Milosevic years, the island has sprung back to life with the take over of Aman. It has the ambience of a luxury village with no evidence of fussy five star pomp or service, just perfect serenity. Created from an island of fishermen's cottages which dates back to the 15th century, Aman Sveti Stefan is an unmissable landmark as you drive down the coast. And it is a stunning one - beautiful honey coloured stone buildings with distinctive red roofs, all crammed on to a tiny piece of rock, reached by a narrow isthmus from the mainland. The restoration has been immaculate and the result is a masterpiece in understated luxury. Rooms are huge with vast beds, hard wood flooring and simple yet very elegant wooden furniture. Walls are white-washed and the colour palette is neutral - there's no need for flashy colours here! Bathrooms carry on the theme with acres of space for the enormous tub and his and hers sinks. Not forgetting the large separate shower. For those who want to visit during the quiet winter months, the island is closed, but you can still experience the Aman magic at Villa Milocer (the former summer residence of Queen Marija Karadordevic) on the mainland. The property offers various dining options, both smart and casual and the quality in each establishment is superb; from the catch of the day cooked to perfection in the Signature restaurant to the wood fired pizzas to be had in the Piazza. Beach wise there's three to choose from (a short stroll aross the isthmus), but we'd recommend the Queen's beach which is a hidden cove on the mainland in front of the vast spa. At Aman Sveti Stefan you'll feel truly spoiled, not just by the location, but by the whole experience. You might need deep pockets, but it'll be worth it. It's truly magnificent.

Sarah Empson