Luna Laguna

Hotel review

Kalpitiya remains far off the beaten track when it comes to Sri Lankan holidays. A little over four hours' drive north of Colombo, on the tranquil west coast, this striking peninsula is bordered by a saltwater lagoon to one side, and the Indian Ocean on the other. Historically, the area was famed for its fishing and pearls, as well as its maritime trade. Expect to see brightly painted fishing boats on vast beaches of golden sands, low-lying salt flats and towering palmyra trees reaching towards brilliant blue skies. 

Most of today's visitors are keen kite surfers, making the most of the wind to glide across the still waters of Kalpitiya Lagoon. For those not contemplating kiting, however, Kalpitiya offers a rare chance to discover a quiet corner of Sri Lanka, where the pace of life remains appealingly easygoing. 

For this, Luna Laguna is magical. The hotel's six guest rooms are individually decorated, with antique wooden doors, ochre-painted walls and big beds topped with pretty patterned cushions. Vintage curios sit atop wooden chests, colourful batiks adorn the walls, and woven cane chairs invite lazy lounging. Polished concrete bathrooms with rain showers and tiled roofs are partly open, and you'll hear birds chirping or frogs and crickets buzzing as you rinse off after pool dips or kayaking excursions. Three of the largest rooms face the lagoon, connected by a red-brick courtyard. Two offer private rooftop spaces; perfect for sunset gin and tonics as birds flit over the surface of the water. The other rooms — slightly smaller but still charming — are set back within the gardens, and well-suited to those looking to hide away. 

Shared spaces include a sunlit swimming pool, shaded ambalamas with low sofas and butterfly chairs for reading with a pot of tea, and the dining pavilion, where big breakfasts are served each morning, and three-course dinners savoured at night. Think freshly caught grilled fish topped with a zingy chilli and soy sauce, classic rice and curries, or plates heaped with biriyani. Meals are eaten at a table with other guests, though private dining can be arranged on request and you can socialise as much or as little as suits you. Like many smaller hotels in Sri Lanka, Luna Laguna is BYOB. You can pick up beer and wine in town, or arrive with some from duty free; the friendly team will be happy to pop it in the fridge and offer glasses, ice and lime whenever you like. 

Wonderfully intimate and romantic, Luna Laguna offers an idyllic sense of escapism. The team are discreet yet helpful, and there's plenty of scope for long walks, visits to churches and the old Dutch Fort, or scenic boat trips. But you'd be forgiven for simply strolling from generous breakfasts to the pool, along to your terrace and back again. What more could you ask for?

Saskia Walker