Liguria’s mountainous backdrop shapes everything here, from the dramatic cliffs and pastel villages of the Cinque Terre to the tiny medieval towns tucked just inland. Genoa, the region’s gritty and fascinating heart, makes a great base, but it’s the coast in both directions that steals the show. West along the Riviera di Ponente, life moves at a gentler pace, with old-fashioned seaside resorts and fishing towns that feel charmingly unpolished. Head east along the Riviera di Levante and you’ll hit the glamorous harbors of Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Camogli, as well as sleek new resorts. Between the two stretches are dozens of sandy and pebbly beaches, small family-run hotels that still know how to welcome kids, and plenty of winding drives that reveal more than just the postcard highlights.