Essaouira spreads along a long sandy strip of Morocco's Atlantic coast. The kind of place you'd imagine Peter O'Toole's Laurence of Arabia riding in to from the desert. Definitely Moroccan, but with a European familiarity - it was designed by a Frenchman. What wouldn't work for Toole's Laurence is the air full of windsurfers and kitesurfers. Some of the best places to stay in Essaouira cater for this crowd, but most are ideal for those who are here for more than the waves.

The powerful and constant wind, the locals call it alizee or taros, which makes this sunny, sandy destination unpleasant for people who want to sit on the beach, makes Essaouira heaven for windsurfers and kitesurfers. And in a way it's these active travellers who've helped protect Essaouira's natural charms from becoming over touristy.

Today the busy medina is just as important a market place as it ever was. This port is not just a pretty museum to its past life, it's still vibrant. Essaouira's protected natural harbour made it an important trade route, hence the massive medina. The labyrinth of streets has been famously recorded by many and is a delightful tangle of treasure - and a nightmare for cars - so visitors are forced to navigate the same pathways as the sugar pirates who influenced the layout of the town.

The beach is long, curving and quiet and the hotels are – generally – more boutique one-offs than Travelodge, so the vibe is more independent traveller than tour group. The streets are too narrow for those big buses.

It's only from the outside that Essaouira looks European, within the narrow alleyways permeated by spicy smells whipped around by the wind it feels very Moroccan. As well as the spices and the smell of the sea the air is filled with the sounds of Gnawa singing.

What not to Miss

• Essaouira actually means 'beautifully designed small fort', so it follows that the old fort is one of the city's main attractions. This fortress originally protected the surrounding town and the harbour.
• The medinas and souks are the other main attractions.
• The working fishing harbour and tiny woodwork factories are also fascinating.
• There's a wonderful art scene - artists have been coming here for years because of the wonderful light.

This is also a great place to visit in winter, when it's quieter and many of the best places to stay in Essaouira are not so busy.

The Best Places to stay in Essaouira

An active break

• For those who like watching windsurfing, as well as going windsurfing, Madada Mogador is should tick all the boxes, if only for the roof terrace which has sweeping views over the stunning beach. There's also a good restaurant which runs cooking classes.
• Dar Liouba used to be an Imam's residence and the seven comfortable, sunny, whitewashed rooms can all be booked together making this one of the best places to stay in Essaouira for groups. They also offer windsurfing or kitesurfing specific packages.

For a Sunny City Break

• If you love the idea of staying in a riad, this 18th Century boutique version just minutes from the beach and the golf courses is probably for you. As well as being a romantic blend of traditional and colonial decor, the Villa de l'O is close to both the beach and the souks and has wonderful sea views from the rooftop terrace, which also overlooks the old town's battlements.
• Casa Lila is a great choice if you're looking for Moroccan sun on a budget - rooms start from around €75 per night,and some of the large rooms sleep up to four. The reasonable price doesn't mean Casa Lila is a plain Jane, she's charming and traditional, but not always in the colours you'd consider traditional Moroccan - making this a really unique place to stay.
• For something more modern try Riad Lotus O Marine. Its luxury includes modern art and even more modern lighting.
• And if you want to hang where Hendrix and Marley hung, book in to Heure Bleue. Who knows what convinced them this was the best place to stay in Essaouira? Was it the roof top terrace and pool? Was it the cinema onsite, or the multiple restaurants which also run cooking classes? Or the location, near the gates of the medina and just minutes from the beach? Or maybe it was the fact that it was originally the home of Caid Mbark Saidi?

Beach Break

• Rebali Riads is a villa style resort on the coast about half an hour outside Essaouira. The accommodation is spacious - some villas have their own pools - and there are excellent facilities for guests of all ages.
• The Riad Chbanate is discreetly located in a quiet spot by the Medina boundary wall. There are eight rooms with impressive bathrooms, plus friendly staff and a resident turtle.

For Couples

• If you're here for the history book into Dar L'Oussia, which is situated in the old ramparts. As well as the historic location these 23 rooms and fours suites ooze heritage. From the four poster beds to the art, to the wonderful inside courtyards and romantic balconies overlooking them.
• La Perle d’Eau is in an unbeatable waterfront location overlooking the Atlantic. There are just eight individually designed rooms and suites. The hosts are helpful and the atmosphere is of comfort and elegance.
• Dar Maya is a luxurious five room riad with a fantastic roof top terrace bar, pool and excellent restaurant. There’s also a hammam and traditional Moroccan details.

For Families

• Les Jardins de Villa Maroc is a charming, rural property with suites and studios with a layout perfect for groups and families. There’s also an excellent entertainment area, a restaurant on site and two pools.
• Dar Lazuli is a Belgian owned guesthouse with three self-contained suites which are ideal for families. Or you could take over the whole property! Rooms start from only €65 per night.
• The Villa Gonatouki is an impressive guesthouse ideal for families and groups. It has just ten rooms, decorated in a welcoming, bohemian style in a colourful palette, plus a hammam and two pools. It’s a palatial feeling villa but the atmosphere is informal.
• The Villa Maroc is a guesthouse converted from four riads in the heart of the medina. As well as the great location, this villa offer 21 rooms in a great configuration for both families and couples.
• Le Jardin des Douars is a fantastic 26 room oasis on the edge of Essaouira with beautiful gardens and traditional Moroccan decor. There are suites and a villa sleeping up to ten, plus sprawling terraces, a spa and an excellent North African/ French restaurant.

Great Value

• The Essaouira Lodge has 34 rooms and generously sized and welcoming public spaces - so it’s a great place for groups or families to congregate. It’s outside of town so the price is very reasonable, with rooms starting from €70 per night.
• For around the same price you could consider Dar Sahil which has just six rooms and two suites. Also just outside town, this traditional Berber house is surrounded by beautiful countryside and has a great pool and you’re right beside a golf course which has been described by ‘Golf World Magazine’ as being one of the world’s ten most beautiful.
• For great value in town, try the Riad Baladin a ten room riad with a chic, yet bohemian vibe and bright, airy rooms. There’s a funky restaurant and hot tub and you’re just minutes from the beach.
• With rooms starting from €85 per night including breakfast, Riad Baoussala is a small riad with rooms, suites and a cottage sleeping up to five all arranged around a pretty courtyard, There’s also a gorgeous pool.

For an Apartment or Villa

• If you’d prefer to stay in a self catering apartment or private villa we recommend you visit our online partner Booking.com.

Travel Information

• Essaouira airport is ten miles out of town and you can catch an airport shuttle bus for around 6 dirhams, or take a taxi for around 150dirhams. Marrakech airport is about two and a half hours away and has a larger range of connections.
• If you would like to hire a car - which we highly recommend if you’re staying in Essaouira and you want to see something of the surrounding countryside - we recommend you visit our online partner Rentalcars
• Essaouira’s average maximum temperatures don’t fluctuate too much throughout the year, with the peak in July at 22°C and the trough in January at 17°C.

Still not sure?

• Expand your search to include the best places to stay in Oualidia, which is just up the coast,
• or expand your search inland to consider the best places to stay in Marrakech,
• or contact one of our friendly Gurus for advice.