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Sicily promises more adventure than your average island break, and Palermo certainly offers a more action-packed city break than most island capitals. Expect historic buildings and a picturesquely rocky coastline, but also an array of architecture that shows the very varied marks of the city’s inhabitants, who have occupied this exciting crossroads on the edge of Europe. Palermo feels busy — maybe a bit chaotic — but once you’re beyond the main streets, you’ll be rewarded with a less uniform pattern of lanes and piazzas, where it’s possible to come across a market as colourful as a souk, or a chapel decorated with ornate mosaics. The majority of our accommodation recommendations in Palermo are in the neighbourhoods between the cathedral and the sea, but if you want to be near a ‘proper’ beach, you’ll need to stay up the road in Mondello.
The Historic Centre, or Centro Storico, has four neighbourhoods: Kalsa, Il Capo, Castellammare and Albergheria. Each of these is a great place for first-time visitors to stay, with easy access to Palermo’s sights and sounds, and plenty of choice when it comes to accommodation, eating and drinking. If you can’t decide, stay around Piazza Vigliena, which is almost dead centre of the four neighbourhoods! Politeama and Via Libertà have more modern amenities than some of Palermo’s other central neighbourhoods, so these are great bases for people who prefer a contemporary hotel, or shopping opportunities, as well as convenience and comfort, while still being within walking distance of Palermo’s historic treasures.
Ideal for: first-time-visitors, city breaks, sightseeing, foodies, romantics, families
Of the Centro Storico’s four neighbourhoods, Kalsa, Il Capo, Castellammare and Albergheria, Kalsa is good for a romantic stay, or a boutique hotel; Il Capo and Albergheria are best for foodies; and Castellammare has the liveliest nightlife. Kalsa is probably the most photogenic neighbourhood in the Centro Storico, with historic palazzo and piazza at every turn, plus cool galleries and boutiques, and cafes and bars to take the edge off — this is a real charmer of a neighbourhood. Il Capo is more of a maze, with winding narrow streets and markets that surprise you. Expect faded grandeur, and some renovated grandeur too! Castellammare also has its own markets, and centuries old palazzos, some of them converted into fabulous hotels. It’s also closer to the sea, and is livelier, especially in the evening. Albergheria is the oldest neighbourhood, and boasts Palermo’s best-known street market, Ballarò, as well as the Royal Palace and the Palatine Chapel. Each neighbourhood has plenty of character and history. They all fan out from the Piazza Vigliena, so you can access the appeals of other central neighbourhoods easily.
Did you know? Underneath Palermo's Historic Centre is the Capuchin Catacombs, where there are around 8,000 mummified bodies, dating from the 16th century, up until the 20th.
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Ideal for: short stays, history lovers, first-time-visitors
At the centre of the Centro Storico neighbourhoods, and the exact centre of historic Palermo, Piazza Vigliena is a four-sided square at the crossroads of the Via Maqueda and the Corso Vittorio. This piazza is a hub of religious buildings: the cathedral is 500 metres away, and there are multiple churches, plus fountains, and grand Baroque facades. You might also hear the piazza referred to as Quattro Canto, which translates to four corners. There’s nowhere more central to stay, and from here, whichever way you walk, you’ll come across something wonderful to look at, and somewhere good to eat.
Did you know? The Quattro Canto's official name is Piazza Vigliena, named after the Viceroy Don Juan Fernandez Pacheco de Villena?
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Ideal for: beach breaks, relaxed stays
Mondello is the classic tale of a humble fishing village turned beach resort for a large nearby port. While Palermo has its own rocky shoreline, Mondello has bright white sand, plus crystal clear water and a rather dramatic rocky backdrop of hills and mountains rising around it. So you can see why well-to-do Palermo residents built summer houses here! Expect beautiful Art Nouveau-style villas, some of which have now been turned into charming accommodation. Mondello is a 15 minute drive from the city, so you might need to plan your travel each day if you opt to stay here. But there's plenty to see without heading in to the city. You could enjoy the beach and the peaceful atmosphere, the Capo Gallo Nature Reserve and Monte Pellegrino. Mondello’s beach will take you about 20 minutes to stroll along, and the views are lovely. When it’s busy, it’s very busy, and you’ll have to pick your way between towels OR pay for your private patch of beach in one of the lidos. Mondello is a great spot for watersports too.
Did you know? Mondello means port of 'mud' or 'swamp', which isn't how it seems today at all!
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Ideal for: luxury lovers, families, relaxed city breaks, lone travellers, meeting the locals
Politeama and Via Libertà are both great neighbourhoods for anyone who prefers their contemporary creature comforts while travelling, but still wants to be in the heart of things. These neighbourhoods are safe and clean, and have a less frenetic atmosphere than those in the heart of the Centro Storico, with wider pavements to accommodate pavement cafes and opportunities to park a car. They’re also easy to get to from the airport, and only 15 minutes walk from the Piazza Vigliena. The Via Libertà is the fanciest shopping street in Palermo, with the high-end bars, restaurants, cafes and accommodation to match.
Did you know? Politeama means 'many theatres', and it was originally designed to host equestrian spectacles, and gymnastic tournaments, not just opera.