The Plough

Hotel review

Despite an unappealing location - on a busy road, nearest town four miles, close to a motorway - this place is always busy. It has a cracking menu and a bold, modern-rustic decor that, together, create a relaxed, convivial atmosphere. The menu is a mix of pub classics and smarter bistro dishes cooked without fuss but with confidence and a touch of swagger. The design has a similar unfussy but confident style that works well in the largely Victorian building (though the low beams and thick walls indicate it has a much older core). Plain wooden tables, mis-matched chairs, leather and velvet sofas are all set against chic-grey walls with wood-burning stoves in stone fireplaces. The dining area (same menu as in the bar) adds bright pink floral-patterned chairs and eye-catching wallpapers. The six rooms have the same effortless country-contemporary elegance with soft-coloured walls, French Provencal furniture, brass bedsteads and thick curtains. Vintage or retro pieces add a touch of wit while bathrooms are vast, all with stand-alone baths. Other than a simple walk, there's nothing on the doorstep but it makes a good base for exploring the Lake District or Yorkshire Dales - and then back to a memorable dinner.

Helen Pickles