The Black Bull, Sedbergh

Hotel review

Originally a 17^th-century coaching inn, the Black Bull was given a bold new look by co-owners James Ratcliffe (locally born) and partner and head chef Nina Matsunaga (Japanese heritage, brought up in Germany) that evokes the feel of a traditional pub with a modern edginess. There are stripped-wood floors, red-banquette seats and a wood-burning stove but inky-black walls, funky lights hanging from beamed ceilings and pots of succulents, ferns and mosses. The bar menu offers superior pub food but it’s Nina’s tasting menu you’re really here for. She brings her Asian cooking techniques and spices knowledge to highlight the flavours, and textures, of local produce. And terroir reigns high here; the kitchens butcher their own meat, for example. Typical dishes might include kombucha oyster mushroom with a spicy houmous, wild sea trout paired with jammy beetroot and sticky rice, and scallop with belly pork and Japanese curry. The wine list is extensive, and there’s a whole sake section. Nina’s sourdough bread is legendary – it features both at dinner and breakfast, and you can buy some to take away.

Bedrooms are sleek and uncluttered with a calming grey and white palette. There are simple shelves for desks, and mirrored wardrobes to increase the sense of space (standard rooms are small, though the beds are big). Local wool carpets, handwoven blankets and moody landscape photographs add warmth and character while bathrooms are soothing spaces of black floors and shiny-white tiles.

Relax in the beer garden with the Howgill Fells almost within touching distance. Something to do tomorrow, after one of Nina's excellent breakfasts.

Helen Pickles