Ballyfin Demesne

Hotel review

Ballyfin is one of those places that, as soon as you’ve been, you’ll want to return to again and again. It is a glorious restoration of a 19th century manor house (though the estate history dates way back to the 1600s), which was allowed to go to wrack and ruin, before being purchased and lovingly put back together by an American billionaire with very deep pockets!

But all that cash has been very wisely spent; not a single detail or object feels out of place. The sumptuous interiors have been crafted to be as exact a copy as possible of the original building in its heyday. You can expect to see huge Chippendale mirrors in the drawing room (which have royal heritage), a chandelier in the Gold room which was owned by Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister, a mosaic in the entrance hall which the Cootes (the family who built the property) purchased and brought back from Pompeii (yes it’s original!) and stunning works of art wherever you look (if you have more modern tastes head downstairs to the pool, spa and Cellar Bar area which is where you’ll see the contemporary art); it is impossible not to be rendered speechless by the beauty of Ballyfin. However, sometimes such breathtaking interiors imbue a property with a stuffiness or stiffness (you know the type of place where you feel you have to whisper); here it is very relaxed and every guest is made to feel that this is their home-from-home for the duration of their visit (albeit a very grand one!). Butlers are on hand to sort out any request, and they also head up the daily history tour of the property (not to be missed).

Every bedroom is individually designed, but each offers a super comfortable bed, luxurious bathroom with deep soaking tub and separate rainfall shower, and a complimentary minibar filled with snacks and soft drinks. Each also boasts lovely views either over the lake at the front of the property and surrounding parkland (the estate extends to over 631 acres), or the fabulous fountain feature to the rear.

Downstairs through the grand reception rooms (all connected by a rotonda where you can help yourself to coffee and tea, cookies and cake by day and which transforms into a bar for pre-dinner drinks in the evening) is the restaurant (The State Dining Room and The Van der Hagen Room) where yet more magic happens. Ballyfin offers Michelin-starred dining, which is outstanding. My advice: opt for the tasting menu and paired wines. The food is divine and the sommelier will introduce you to a raft of interesting new wines (maybe even one from Ireland). Lunch is also served here, as is breakfast. Both meals are equally as decadent or as restrained as you like, but with extraordinarily high standards throughout.

There are endless activities to keep you occupied on site, too. The butler will give you a map of the grounds, and if you can’t be bothered to go for a walk, there are golf buggies to borrow and go exploring with. Don’t miss a trip to the tower and climb to the top; not only will you be rewarded with epic views, but there are a couple of restorative flasks to choose from — hot chocolate or hot port anyone? Alternatively, you can take a boat out on the lake, borrow a vintage bike, try your hand at archery or falconry or arrange a private picnic in a secluded spot.

If wellness and relaxation are more your thing, head down to the spa. As well as the 14m heated indoor pool, there’s a thermal suite with vitality pool and sauna, and therapists offering a fantastic menu of treatments using Pevonia products.

Ballyfin is a truly wonderful property. Everything about it makes you smile, from the stunning (sometimes jaw-dropping) interiors to the wonderful staff, who make you feel that you have arrived home. I’d advise everyone to add this to their bucket list!

Sarah Empson